About the
River
The Coulonge River runs about 250k (155 miles) from its
source in the lakes of Parc La Verendrye southward to the Ottawa
River. Over that distance, it drops about 260 meters (850 feet) -- 50
meters of that over the massive Grandes Chutes near the town of Fort Coulonge.
One of a dozen or so significant rivers emptying into
the Ottawa (her famous sister stream, the Dumoine, amongst them) the Coulonge was used as a waterway
by native North Americans and, later, by the coureur des bois plying their independent trade in
furs. From the early 19th century forward, the forests around it were
heavily logged and every year a seething mass of lumber hurtled down
the Coulonge as the huge log drives followed close upon the spring
break-up. In fact, there were log drives on the Coulonge into the
middle of this century and evidence of those days is everywhere --
from the ubiquitous dead heads and the deep tea-colour of the water
(tannins leached from the lumber) to the log slides and other
artifacts scattered all along the route.
The Coulonge is a little more
peaceful now, reverting slowly back to her natural state, especially
in the north. Although a small hydro dam was built just above the
Chutes, about 20k or so upriver from her mouth, she otherwise runs
free. Her banks have been somewhat tamed in the south, with small
farms, cottages, and such scattered about, but the north is still
semi-wilderness, and looks as though it will remain such for awhile --
knock wood!
About the
Trip
Classified as a novice/intermediate
whitewater river, this is a great trip for experienced wilderness
paddlers looking to earn a few whitewater stripes. The particular
stretch described on this site offers plenty of Class I and II
whitewater, and significant stretches of fastwater, with a minimum of
portaging. More experienced whitewater paddlers will take considerable
pleasure in the long, technical stretches like Enrages and
Guinettes.
Although fairly remote, still
feeling much like a wilderness river in stretches, dirt roads and cart
tracks meander throughout the valley, significantly raising the safety
level for trippers and allowing many alternative put-in and take-out
spots -- assuming you can find them.
The scenery ranges from merely
pleasing to spectacular, wildlife is plenty, and there are thousands
of beautiful spots -- many near whitewater -- to pitch a tent. And for
now, at least, the Coulonge hasn't suffered the same scourge of fame,
overcrowding by whitewater enthusiasts, as her sister stream, the
Dumoine.
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